Description
Designed to help eliminate play and improve bump steer, our bump steer kit includes a machined tie rod adjuster and improved tie rod end with a variety of spacers.
What is bump steer? Bump steer is caused by changes in the steering angle as a result of motion in the suspension. Tending to your bump steer is yet another step forward toward the predictability and confidence you’re looking for in your classic car. Our kit is designed to retain ideal steering geometry and add strength and additional adjustment to the original part.
MOD Bump Steer Kit Includes:
- 2 x Tie Rod Ends with Bump Steer Adjustment Spacers
- 2 x Aluminum Adjusters
- Select the correct taper for your spindle
Installation Instructions
The purpose of our bump steer kit is to allow you to dial in a dynamic toe setting for your vehicle. The standard starting point is a consistent toe measurement across 1.5″ of droop/compression from standard ride height.
The original suspension leaves a lot of room for improvement because of how high the steering arm sits. However, when a person increases their caster, the figures get better. Because the upper ball joint has moved back, the steering arm has to drop and achieves a slightly more neutral setting.
To achieve a much more neutral setting, we want the tie rod assembly to travel along the same plane as the lower control arm. However, this isn’t as easy as just eyeballing it. Instead, we recommend the following steps:
- First make sure you have the caster alignment you intend to keep for a while. If you have not already aligned your car, start there.
- Jack the car off the ground completely and get it as level as possible.
- Disconnect the front sway bar end links.
- Remove the front shocks and springs.
- Set the suspension at ride height while the car is in the air. I’ve used wheel stand and blocks to achieve the correct wheel location with respect to the chassis.
- Check and set the front toe. The spacer setting on the outer tie rod does matter yet. Just make sure you have them similar on both sides of the car.
- Use your jack to lift the car via the front crossmember. For safety, I keep the front jack stands in place but lower them about 2″. The jack will now allow you to raise and lower the front of your car.
- Start with the car set at ride height. Jack the car up 1″ and recheck the toe setting.
- Now lower the car 1″ from neutral (2″ from the first measurement) and check your toe.
- If the car is toeing out, lower the outer tie rods. If the car is toeing in, raise the outer tie rods.
- You will likely repeat this process several times until you get the hang of it.
Recommended Starting Points
These recommendations are strictly that, recommendations. Each of us may have unique needs that may vary.
If you are starting from scratch and you are not sure where to start, then start with zero toe change 1″ up from ride height and 1″ below ride height.
If you are looking to get aggressive you might try having the front suspension toe in a little during compression and tow out just a little under droop. 1/32 toe out 1″ up from ride height and 1/32″ tow out in 1″ of droop.
Street – 1/16″-1/8″ toe in static. As close as possible to zero change.
Race – 0″-1/8″ toe out with a hair of toe in during compression (about 1/16″) and a hair of toe out during droop (about 1/16″)
The bump steer adjuster is a way to help you make the most of what you have. All of these factors contribute to a well mannered vehicle on both street and track.
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